Whistler’s winemaker has been the illustrious Rolf Binder, but new vintages will be made by Troy Kalleske, who is doing such great work under his own name. Whistler’s inky/purple-tinged 2003 Shiraz is a big, concentrated, classic Australian red with surprising balance and elegance as well as abundant quantities of blackberry and cassis fruit nicely touched by toasty oak, charcoal smoke, and spice characteristics. Aged for nearly two years in primarily American oak, and bottled unfiltered, this is a large-scaled, smoky, earthy, dense Shiraz with a lot of upside potential. It should hit its peak in 2-3 years, and last for 12-15.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800

Aged in 80% American and 20% French oak (about 50% new), the 2002 Shiraz is a surprisingly elegant, dense purple-colored offering with a sweet nose of white chocolate, blackberries, cherries, dusty, loamy soil, and a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, opulent, and nicely textured, it is a beautifully pure wine to drink now and over the next 7-8 years. I had a slight preference (although that may change in 5-6 years) for the 2002 Shiraz over the Reserve bottling. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800