The Besson 2008 Givry Le Haut Colombier – from the non premier-cru portion of Le Petit Pretan, which regulations for the Cote Chalonnaise now prohibit labeling as such – needed a good shaking to dissipate gas and properly reveal a ripe nose of dark cherry, beet root, and hints of game, which then follow on a bright, refreshing, yet subtly creamy palate. This will retain lots of appeal and versatility for at least 4-5 years in bottle. The Bessons have been a source of rare red and white Burgundy value for more than a decade, and have often demonstrated their ability to rise to the challenge of a vintage (although they did not succeed in 2007 to the extent that they did in 2008, or even 2004). Their use of 30-60% new wood seldom results in any signs of overt oakiness, in part because some wines are raised in a combination of barrique and 500-liter tonneaux. But like other growers utilizing larger barrel sizes in very cold cellars, the CO2 was very slow to dissipate from their 2008s after malo, and as a result these wines had not yet been bottled (though they had long since been racked to tank) when I tasted them in March.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93