The 2020 High Sands Grenache speaks of raspberry leaf tea, matcha dust, cut fennel, star anise, cherry seed and blood plum skin. This is the more classically styled Grenache of the Ovitelli and the High Sands, and it is classy to its very core. As the two wines hail from the same vineyard, albeit different blocks (and within that, there are differences), the density and gravitas that is afforded this wine has to, at some point, be attributed to the foudre component. It balances the febrile, delicate Grenache fruit and weights it. Now, whether that is your "thing" or not is up for discussion, but it is clear that there is a style difference between the Ovitelli and the High Sands. This is unerringly elegant and svelte, polished, expressive and effortless. It sails through the mouth. It is sensational. The tannins are absolutely the highlight, finely milled and poudre-like in texture. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. The High Sands vineyard is a beautiful, "open-to-the-sky" bush vine vineyard that was planted in 1946. The Block 31 section, which is where the fruit for this wine is sourced from, is 1.7 hectares and sits on the cap of the gentle hill upon which the vines are planted. This is where the deepest deposit of sandy soil is. Handpicked and sorted on the fancy table in the winery, 50% whole berries were fermented in open fermenters, and it was on the skins for a minimum of 21 days. It had a wild ferment and no pressings in the final wine. It matured on the lees in a combination of large, old French foudres and ceramic eggs.

The fruit for this 2019 High Sands Grenache is sourced from the highest plot on the estate, from old bush vines planted in 1946. This an incredibly complex wine that undulates and ripples across the tongue; it brings blood and ferrous, crushed quartz and pink peppercorns, poise and succulence, but never, ever heaviness. Weight: no. This has silken sway and lithe flow, but no heaviness. What an amazing wine that lingers and echoes through the finish. An emphatic, resounding, YES. In fact, I was almost done with this tasting note, and it occurred to me that there is also framboise, licorice, a hint of anise, salami and graphite through the finish. It's a crime to spit this out—so I won't.

More traditionally styled than the Ovitelli or Hickinbotham, the 2018 High Sands Grenache underwent indigenous fermentation in open-top vats and then the free-run juice was put into older French oak, where it matured for 11 months. It's deeper colored yet not dark, with subtle notes of pencil shavings accenting black cherries and licorice. Full-bodied and concentrated without being heavy or dense, it delivers a range of berry flavors, intriguing notions of garrigue and a long, richly textural finish.

The 2017 High Sands Grenache comes from a cool vintage and hence had a longer hang time than most others and a higher pH, which makes it paradoxically more approachable than some warmer years. Delicate raspberry and strawberry nuances mark the nose, as the bulk of the wine was aged in older barrels, with some spending time in ceramic egg as well. It's medium-bodied and silky in texture, with a lingering red-fruit finish.

Aged entirely in older barrels, the 2016 High Sands Grenache is an epic effort that must surely be one of Australia's greatest Grenache wines. Exquisite perfumes of rose petals, strawberries and raspberries are underscored by hints of fine herbs and cedar, while the medium to full-bodied palate is plush and velvety yet structured, with a long, intense finish. I was still seeing fireworks long after tasting it.