The 2009 Carrodus Viognier has ripe apricot and pear juice aromas with underlying honeyed notes and a whiff of smokiness. The full bodied palate has a pleasantly silky texture with medium-high acid, plenty of stone fruit flavor with a long spicy finish that imparts the slightest bit of charry bitterness. Drink it now to 2013. In 2009 the bush fires that raged through the Yarra Valley in early February came dangerously close to Yarra Yering. In my opinion the 2009 range of Yarra Yering wines show signs of smoke taint. The distinctive character isn't overwhelming but it's there. Apart from the smoke taint and the fact that the wines aren't as concentrated or complex as the outstanding 2008s, they are well made and palatable. But collectors be aware, there is a slight burnt-wood / ash character to the wines, showing most in a distinctive and slightly bitter flavor at the back of the palate. Some of the wines display the character more, especially the 2009 Dry Red No 1 and the Underhill Shiraz. Research seems to suggest that the smoke taint character could become more pronounced with aging, so if readers do want to buy these wines I would recommend they drink them sooner rather than later.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Produced in tiny quantities (no more than 2 barrels are ever made), the 2008 Viognier is also from original 1969 plantings, cuttings said to have come from Chateau Grillet (in a suitcase). It has gorgeous aromas of apricots and fresh figs with some acacia honey and earthy whiffs of wet stone and white truffle. The full-bodied, viscous palate has just the right amount of medium-high acid and a long finished layered with stone fruit and earth flavors. This exquisitely textured wine is irresistible now, though I'm not sure that it will improve much with age. Along with Giaconda, one of the most incredible visits during my recent tour of Victoria was Yarra Yering. I'm pleased to report that the new owners have not done a thing to compromise the spirit or unique methods of the late Dr. Bailey Carrodus. The winery's GM, Tim Hampton, has been with the winery since the 1980s and will remain there for the foreseeable future ensuring that techniques and quality remain consistent at this historic landmark. I arrived in the midst of the harvest and got to witness this very special winery in action. The original vineyards here were planted in 1969, today remaining unirrigated and low-yielding. The crux of the winemaking is to maintain single vineyard purity achievable by small batch fermentations in vats that were designed by Dr. Bailey to be manageable by a single man. Therefore all the wines are made in 90 custom built, wooden, square shaped, 600 kg fermenters, which neatly equate to one hogshead barrel of wine. Stalks are part of the red winemaking, a combination of natural yeasts and cultured yeasts are used, and acid is never added. The wines are not filtered, and they have their own bottling unit so that the entire job is finished on the site. After the trials of the 2007 vintage (bushfires came dangerously close to the winery that year), Yarra Yering has emerged in 2008 firing on all pistons. The 2008 line-up is extraordinary, particularly considering the challenges of the vintage. Not all these wines are available in all markets, but they can be found for a limited time at the cellar door if you're willing to make the pilgrimage - and you should consider it!Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com