Merlot from Veneto is not always convincing, but Zenato has a winner on its hands with the 2005 Merlot. This plump, round wine is packed with ripe fruit intermingled with scents of French oak. This delicious soft-textured red is best enjoyed over the next year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Zenato is a producer I have long admired for their traditionally-styled Amarone and Valpolicella. Some of their entry-level wines are made in a more commercial style, and while quality can be variable, the best of these wines merit attention. Sadly, as I finished this article I heard of the passing of Sergio Zenato, a man who had done so much for the wines of Veneto.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A super bargain. Readers seeking a fruit-driven, delicious Merlot that won't cost a fortune should check out Zenato's 1997 Merlot del Venezie. Made from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it exhibits a dark ruby color, abundant fruit, low acidity, and a round finish. It will not make "old bones," but for drinking over the next several years, it is a fine value.Importer: A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620