A spot-on choice for some honey-and-beer-marinated prawns on the barbie, the Zidarich 2017 Malvasia shows a dark golden color and opens to ripe apricot, candied fruit and toasted almond. It presents some of the dry, nutty aromas that one associates with extended skin contact. That nuttiness continues to the mouth with more flavors of caramelized apple, marzipan and pastry cream. The Malvasia grape adds floral intensity as well, with a touch of yellow rose, dried jasmine and dusty mineral.

The 2011 Malvasia shows a dim, cloudy appearance and an off-gold color with faint traces of pink and copper. The bouquet presents slightly oxidized tones of yellow candy and caramel, but they are distant and low in intensity. At the core of the matter are layers of luscious yellow melon and ripe peach that give the wine a tight and stable mouth-feel. Mineral characteristics of crushed seashell and flint segue to a long, dry finish. Drink: 2014-2016. Gloriously basking in their unfiltered and untamed personalities, the wines of Zidarich (from the Carso sub region) offer a sneak peek into the Italian “natural” wine movement that has recently picked up so much speed in northeast Italy. They will not appeal to everyone but definitely reward those who seek out this unique school of wine. Importer: A.I. Selections, www.aiselections.com

The 2009 Malvasia is at first quite ripe and exotic, but then turns quite a bit more minerally on the mid-palate and finish. It is a marvelous, fascinating wine loaded with character and personality. Ash, smoke and crushed rocks add complexity to the intensely varietal fruit. Sweet floral notes add lift on the close. Zidarich’s Malvasia is often one of the top wines in Friuli, as it is again in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2008 Malvasia is another first-class wine from Zidarich. A textured, yet understated white, the Malvasia offers up gorgeous varietal fruit along with a totally engaging personality. Sweet floral notes are woven throughout, adding freshness and brightness. the Malvasia is a touch more feminine than the Vitovska, but equally compelling. The understated, creamy finish leaves a lasting impression. This is a beautiful, elegant wine from Beniamino Zidarich. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Beniamino Zidarich continues to set a high bar for the wines of the Carso, one of Friuli's most fascinating terroirs. This is a superb set of 2008s. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243