Deliciously ripe, jammy cherry, raspberry and cola fruit star on this dry wine, with a sweet edge of smoky oak. The all-important tannins are smooth and refined. But there’s a hit of heat from high alcohol that makes the finish hot. The official alcohol on this ’08 is far higher than it was on the fabulous 2007 bottling. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 88