The 2006 Gran Reserva has a lifted bouquet of macerated red cherries, chocolate and over-ripe oranges. The palate is succulent on the entry with lush black fruit laced with tar and white pepper, leading to a weighty finish that will need a few more years to mellow. It has great substance, but needs time to develop the panache. Drink 2016-2022. Originating from the Greek word for “first”, Protos was founded back in 1927 by 15 local winemakers, who created the Cooperativa Ribera del Duero. Their modern winery is located in Anguix in Burgos in the shadow of the splendid Penafiel castle. Opened in 2008 and designed by no less than Richard Rogers. I am going to commence with a couple of wines from Rueda that the bodega produces as they are worth seeking out. Importer: Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620