The St Joseph appellation is a slightly mixed bag in 2014, but these releases from Delas offer plenty to love. Notes of powdered rock, cracked pepper, smoked meats and ample dark fruit all emerge from the beautifully pure, elegantly-styled 2014 Saint Joseph Francois de Tournon, which has nicely integrated acidity and a clean, lengthy profile. It has terrific concentration in the vintage, a focused, lengthy feel and will keep for a decade or more.