The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes sees 20% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet with lovely touches of almond and hazelnut lending it a Meursault-like personality. The palate is taut and focused on the entry with orange peel and quince notes toward the middle and finish. It does not quite have the minerality of the previous finish but it displays fine length. This was my first visit chez Domaine Marc Morey, located in the heart of the village of Chassagne. They are one of several Morey’s in the village that stem from Fernand Morey, who settled their in 1919 and opened a revered restaurant. He was joined by his son Marc in 1944; then by his own daughter Marie-Josephe and her husband Bernard Mollard in 1977. And finally the person who met me at their winery, their daughter Sabine. Like many in the village, the emphasis here is upon Chardonnay, which occupies just over seven of their nine hectares. They have adopted a lutte raisonnee approach to viticulture in recent years, with a ten-month elevage for their white usually employing around 30% new oak. Their underground cellar had recently been refitted with a rather chichi, grotto-like tasting room. Sabine has certainly stepped the wines up a level in recent vintages. These 2012s were generally commendable follow-ups to her impressive 2011s. Both village crus see 15% new oak. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083