Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken, Pfalz, Germany

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The Koheler-Rupprecht 2005 Kallstadter Saumagen Muskateller Spatlese is misleadingly labeled, since it definitely tastes dry, and in fact only transcended the legal sugar limit for “trocken” by 0.1 grams. Sage flower, lightly-roasted coffee, and dried apricot on the nose lead to a satiny, lees-enriched palate, and a finish of invigorating pungent herbal and saline savor. There are so few outstanding examples nowadays of truly dry genuine Muscat (one looks to Alsace largely in vain) and this is a genre whose versatility at table is so underappreciated, that we have an opportunity for a voyage of discovery over the coming 3-5 years. Bernd Philippi is making plans to sell his winery – as has long been expected given there is no one to inherit it – and says he has found a suitable buyer. Details – including all of those for which lovers of Koehler-Rupprecht wines (which seem inseperable from the person of Bernd Philippi) are waiting with baited breath – have yet to materialize. It has always been difficult to cover Koehler-Rupprecht Riesling in the context of a vintage report, because the dry wines are seldom released for at least a full year after already late bottling, the top examples are released years later as “R” or “RR” reserves. When I sat down with Philippi in August, 2007 we as usual tasted through a range of wines including many long ago sold-out, but what follows are notes on a few favorite or still upcoming releases. Unperturbed by the botrytis of the vintage, his 2005s are proving to be almost consistently outstanding.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300