The Koehler-Rupprecht 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spatlese halbtrocken smells of sweet corn, quince, apple, lime, fennel, and ginger, which also inform its silken-textured palate. It’s always fascinating at this address to witness how sensitive are the aromas, flavors, and textures of Saumagen Spatlese to small amounts of residual sugar. In particular, there is a dominance of orchard fruits and the emergence of site-typical ginger spice once a mere 15 grams or so of sugar are applied. That said, pungently yeasty and faintly flor-like notes wafting about this wine. A wonderfully refreshing and energetic amalgam of fruits and herbs tinged with chalk informs a long finish. This should prove versatile and delightful for 15 or more years. For comments on the recent sale of this estate (the most important of which is Bernd Philippi’s insistence that “nothing will change”) and on other developments here, see my report in issue 185. The choice of Pradikat-designation (or of “Reserve” status) for his many dry Rieslings from the large Saumagen site, explains Philippi, was once again this year – as in many others – based on an assessment of phenolic ripeness (clues: are the grapes greener or deeper gold; how big and how numerous are they?) and ultimately on style, concentration, and perceived aging potential, rather than on must weight, since sugar levels in the grapes were relatively uniform. Philippi acquired the major vineyard holdings of his friend Walter Henninger – notably in the chalky Annaberg – after that estate was recently dissolved, so while he had been farming these parcels and making the wines for many years under Henninger’s label, beginning in 2008 they became Koehler Rupprecht wines.A new U.S. importer had not yet been selected as of press time.