Boillot's 2006 Volnay Les Anges – from a site between Fremiets and Clos de la Barre, on the north side of the village – is (or at least was in the immediate aftermath of bottling) – somewhat reduced, but responds to a good shaking, revealing fresh, tart blackberry; Pommard-like smokiness and roasted meat; and a welcome refinement and sheer fluidity that several of Boillot's young 2006s conspicuously lacked. As this opens further to the air, it displays suggestions of floral perfume and fresh ginger as well as a riper expression of fresh berries, both of which carry into a finish of buoyancy, invigoration, and savory, juicy persistence. This should be well worth following for the next 6-8 years. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990