The 2006 Romitorio di Santedame, 60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, flows from the glass with layers of mineral-infused dark fruit, earthiness and new leather. Though a touch inward today, this powerful red seems to have plenty of potential for the future. The finish is long, clean and nicely articulated. This is by far the best of the new releases from Ruffino. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Admittedly, I was very disappointed with the wines I tasted from Ruffino this year. The estate’s search for ripeness and opulence has yielded wines that as a group increasingly lack any real character.Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

Romitorio di Santedame delivers the elegance and storied tradition of Tuscany in a refined, sophisticated package. Bright notes of cherry, cassis and white almond give a fresh edge to the wine’s rich concentration. ——M.L.(10/1/2011)—— 92

The 2004 Romitorio di Santedame is Colorino and Merlot aged in French oak. Super-ripe dark cherries, new leather, spices, licorice and tar emerge, despite the presence of a very heavy handed use of French oak. Here, too, the wine possesses excellent depth but the search for concentration has left the wine with hard, astringent tannins that dominate its balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111