Here’s a savory, delicious and varietally true Pinor Noir that drinks well right away, but has the structural integrity for the cellar. With crisp, dry flavors of cherries, pomegranates, cola, tobacco and Chinese five-spice, it appeals for its exotic immediacy, but has the density to evolve for 5 or 6 years.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 92