The 2016 Passobianco (a pure expression of Chardonnay) produces a lightweight but solid frame that reminds me on some metaphorical level of that special aluminum used to make racing bicycles. Indeed, this is a racy wine with steely aromas of citrus, white peach and Sicilian almond biscuit. It is put together with impeccable balance and precision. And of course, you get those vaguely scented volcanic notes on the silky finish. It is aged in a combination of large oak vats (for four months) and cement (for eight months). This is a terrific expression of Chardonnay from the deep south of Italy. Some 36,000 bottles were made.