The 2007 Pinot Noir is impressive: a fresh, crisp, slightly leafy nose redolent of a Pommard – very fresh with scents of cranberry and raspberry leaf. The palate does not disappoint with vibrant acidity, that almost translucent quality that defines great Pinot Noir: taut, fresh with a touch of red cherry and cranberry towards the finish. An absolute delight! Bravo! Drink now-2013. New Zealand is one of the most ecologically minded countries in the world and so Grove Mill’s achievement at becoming the country’s first carbon-neutral winery is something they like to promote. However, that is irrelevant if their wines are poor! Fortunately there is much to recommend from this Marlborough producer apart from their green credentials. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (800) 872-5622 or 516-802-4700; fax (516) 921-8405.

Seems a bit on the woody side for now, boasting aromas of dark roasted coffee backed by hints of plummy fruit. The cedary, coffee-tinged oak continues on the palate, where it imparts a slightly dry, tannic edge to this otherwise supple, rounded wine. Give it a year or two to see if the oak integrates with time.——J.C.(3/1/2009)—— 86