The deepest, richest, and most intense offering in this portfolio is the 2003 Syrah Ascent. A saturated blue/black hue is followed by scents of creosote, blueberries, blackberries, charcoal, smoke, and new oak. This dense, powerful, muscular Syrah (less than 200 cases produced) should evolve for a decade or more. Tel. (209) 245-3117

Terre Rouge’s most expensive Syrah, a best barrel selection, fortunately avoids the raisiny overripeness of the other Syrahs, although it’s still a very ripe wine. The flavors are of berries and fruits that have been cooked into a pie. Dry and tannic, it seems best now, although the winemaker feels it’s an ager. ——S.H.(6/1/2006)—— 87