The 1996 Barolo Villero should be used to teach a course in what great Barolo smells like. It possesses a classic, rose petal, melted tar, and cherry liqueur-scented nose that soars from the glass. In the mouth, it exhibits licorice, black cherry fruit, fruitcake, spice box, and other assorted nuances in its profoundly complex personality. Full-bodied and marvelously concentrated with exquisite harmony, this appears to be a fabulously young Barolo that will age effortlessly for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620