Torii Mor Winery was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson who continue to actively operate the winery. The winery produces 15-18,000 cases, mostly from the Dundee Hills AVA.Tel. (503) 538-4001; www.toriimorwinery.com

Aggressively herbal, dark and slatey, this arresting Pinot Noir is distinctive and powerful; it won’t appeal to everyone, but those who like it will appreciate its uniqueness. There is an impression of clay and a hardness to the fruit, but it’s compact enough to suggest a reasonably long life ahead.——P.G.(11/15/2008)—— 90