The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is off the charts, especially considering it is the debut vintage for this wine. Campalto’s Brunello combines elements of richness and sheer density of fruit within the framework of a classically structured wine. Plums, cherries, wild herbs, menthol and minerals are woven together in an intricate fabric of rare pedigree and complexity. The finish is exceptionally pure, elegant and refined. Simply put, this seductive and powerful Brunello is a gem that readers won’t want to miss. It is every bit as remarkable as my comments suggest. The Brunello saw 34 months of oak prior to bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. How thrilling it is to taste these new releases from Stella di Campalto, one of Montalcino’s new generation of small, artisan producers.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Mature nose. Chocolate powder and prunes with sweet leatheriness and a lingering savoury finish. Classic.