Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Goldert Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Alsace, France

鴻布列什酒莊歌黛園瓊瑤漿晚收甜白葡萄酒

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Candied brown spices and citrus peel along with litchi, banana oil, and smoked meat in the nose of the Zind-Humbrecht 2007 Gewurztraminer Goldert usher in a strikingly creamy palate that no doubt reflects the low acidity here (unusual by vintage standards) and introduces quince preserves and nougat to the already rather confectionary array of flavors on display. Precisely the wine’s creaminess and sweet personality held keep its 15% alcohol from burning, although it leaves my lips slightly numb. In theory a powerful, rich Goldert like this should age well for 15 or more years, and I have had a few great, old-fashioned, dry Gewurztraminer from vintages like 1967, 1959, or 1953 that no doubt harbored 15% alcohol. As in so many instances among the 2007 Zind-Humbrecht non-Rieslings, I’d simply caution to regularly monitor the wine in your cellar. But for the foreseeable future, I would rather drink the village-level Gueberschwihr bottling. ”After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724

The Zind-Humbrecht Goldert has everything you have a right to expect from the exotic Gewurztraminer grape: it’s packed with loads of Asian spices, dried fruit and honey flavor and it offers up intense scents of lychee and pear that jump right out of the glass. An exceptional level of concentration allows this wine to carry its 15% alcohol, though the finish is a bit warm. Try with Thai fare. ——J.R.(10/1/2010)—— 94