This dark, somewhat volatile reserve wine from the Hogue Cellars is trying to push the envelope, with mixed success. Small amounts of Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet seem to have pumped up the color and the tannins, without adding much in the way of fruit. Right now it’s quite tight, and long airing does not improve it. If another year or two in bottle can work some magic, and soften up the tannins, it could turn a corner into a fine, medium-bodied Bordeaux-style wine.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 86