Taking fruit from both South Australia and Victoria, this is Cabernet through and through. Well-judged and balanced, there''s a creamy, round texture that plumps up those lovely, juicy, pure blackcurrant characters, while chocolatey notes add to the appeal.

According to the winemaker, this is specifically tailored to go with red meat and the truth is, it would make a solid steakhouse Cab. It delivers cedar, tobacco and cassis aromas and flavors and dusty, nicely textured tannins that will cut through the fat of a prime cut. Limited in ageability, but that’s probably all to the good in a restaurant setting. ——J.C.(10/1/2009)—— 87