The red wines commence with the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon “The Cover Drive”. Aside from being a blend of regions, it also contains 7.5% Shiraz and 2.5% Malbec. It was aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Purple-colored, it offers toasty aromas along with notes of spice box, cassis, and black currants. Full-bodied, ripe, and balanced, it has a sense of elegance and enough structure to drink well for 4-5 years. It is an excellent value. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Even Jim Barry’s entry-level Cabernet—The Cover Drive—is a hit. Blending various South Australian sources, it takes jammy blackberry fruit, backs it with darker notes of chocolate and layers atop a briary, herbal component, all working together to ably conceal its 15% alcohol. Drink now–2012.——J.C.(2/1/2008)—— 89