From what appears to be a superb vintage in Ribera del Duero, the 2004 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza, made from 85% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot aged for 12 months in French and American oak, is an outstanding effort. Purple in color with complex aromatics consisting of mocha, smoke and black cherry, this rich effort has much in common with a fine quality Medoc. It has enough tannin to support 2-4 years of additional aging, and should drink well for 6-8 years thereafter. Importer: Kysela Pere & Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

Almost jolting in how the nose differs from the competition. Here, you get an early blast of rhubarb and wet dog along with herbal strawberry. Never does the wine shed that herbal character, so at all points there’s a touch of tobacco, bell pepper and bramble.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 85