This is the best California Chenin Blanc I’ve ever tasted. Bill Wathan gave the wine full Burgundian treatment, which accounts for the rich creaminess, while the grape itself lends high acidity and a sweet-sour lemon flavor with notes of camphor and tumeric. With the vines dating to 1966, this is an extraordinarily complex, bone-dry wine. ——S.H.(8/1/2006)—— 93