This ever-reliable producer has turned out a beautiful 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon that has plenty of black currant flavor as well as sweet toasty oak and smokiness in a nice, round, opulent sexy style that begs for drinking over the next decade. Tel. (707) 963-4204; Fax (707) 963-5958

Here’s an extraordinary wine to add to your cellar collection. It’s a guaranteed ager. Supported by rich, sturdy tannins, it shows a firm, dry mouthfeel and deep flavors of blackberries, with a seamless hem of toasty oak. So balanced, so powerful and elegant, it’s at the top of its class, and proves that the floor of the Napa Valley can produce great Cabernet. Drink now–2020.——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 95