Readers looking for a spectacular bargain in Barbera should check out one of my perennial best buys - the 1998 Barbera d'Asti Fiulot. Aged in tank and bottled early to preserve its freshness, this effort is once again a plump, attractive, exuberant, richly fruity, lusciously-styled Barbera that should appeal to both fine wine connoisseurs and neophytes. Bursting with ripe black cherry fruit, it possesses a succulent texture and spicy finish. Drink it over the next 2 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620