The 2006 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste flows from the glass with tons of dark fruit wrapped around a deep, muscular core. I am too young to have tasted the 1989 when it was first released, but I imagine it might very well have been like this. The sheer density of the fruit is remarkable, while the wine’s balance is first-rate. With time, sweet balsamic mentholated notes appear, along with spices, violets, leather and licorice, all supported by the wine’s muscular, broad-shouldered frame. This is a classic among classics and a must-have wine for anyone serious about great Barolo. The more it sat in the glass, the more I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2026-2046. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

An elegant, supple style, despite its firm structure. Exhibits rose, cherry, menthol and licorice flavors underscored by mineral. Taut and linear, with a long, sustained aftertaste. Best from 2013 through 2028. 650 cases made. -BS

Giuseppe Rinaldi awes and amazes with the Cannubi-San Lorenzo-Ravera Barolo, but is slightly less successful with this wine from the Brunate and Le Coste crus. The wine is lively and fresh but is also less intense on the nose. The mouthfeel is dominated (at this early stage) by thick, bitter tannins that will no doubt soften with time. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 89