The outstanding 1998 Amarone was aged three months in stainless steel and nearly 30 months in a combination of small barrels and larger foudres, it was reminiscent of a French southern Rhone. Dense ruby/purple-colored with a big, spicy, peppery nose revealing hints of truffles, dried black cherries, and melted asphalt, this full-bodied, muscular, chewy Amarone possesses well integrated acidity as well as ripe tannin. This pedal to the metal wine cuts a large swath across the palate. It is capable of lasting, possibly improving for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Powerful and spicy, with aromas of black fruit, pepper, baking spices and herbs. This is soft, modern Amarone, a wine that you could drink now. The palate is rich, with chewy fruit and plenty of nuance. Overall it’s clean, easy and perfectly textured.——W.E.(5/1/2003)—— 91