From its penetrating aroma onward, the Morey-Blanc 2006 Corton Charlemagne (from three tiny parcels) is virtually fixated on lemons and crushed stone. With an oily texture, impressive amplitude, and savory, meaty suggestions adding to the interest on the palate, this rather austere grand cru offering finishes tenaciously with a tactile sense of stoniness and lemon zest, along with hints of lanolin and resin from the barrel, and some heat. I would plan on monitoring it in another couple years before ascertaining whether cellaring for more than 4-6 years might be warranted, but I suspect not. Incidentally, the fruit from Montrachet which was last bottled under the Morey-Blanc label in 2004 was subsequently lost to a change in direction by its owner, Remoissenet.
Alongside his domaine, Pierre Morey (who recently retired as cellar master from Domaine Leflaive) has operated since 1992 a negociant arm. Morey-Blanc offers a considerable array of wines, given that fruit is purchased from fewer than 10 acres of vines. The original incentive for this venture was to replace the great Meursault premier crus long on the Domaine Pierre Morey roster after the expiration in 1991 of Morey’s rental contracts for property owned by the Comte Lafon.
Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661
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