The von Hovel 2009 Kanzemer Hohecker Riesling Spatlese feinherb is exotically floral, with pungent, sweet suggestions of lily, narcissus, and perhaps some sort of orchid. Polished and creamy in texture, buoyant and subtly refreshing, this mingles apple, peach, toasted grains, and nut oils in a manner that briefly calls to mind white Burgundy, though the wine's delicacy and florality – not to mention its underlying wet stoniness – identify it as a member of the greater Mosel family. Here is one of those 2009s I deem watercolor-like for its lightness, transparency, and gentle bleeding of one subtle shade into another. I find the effect delightful and would by no means conclude from its style that this wine will fade early. On the contrary, I suspect it will reward following for at least a dozen years, and its hidden sweetness will offer fascinating culinary opportunities. A dreadful health crisis from which he is thankfully now slowly recovering put proprietor Eberhard von Kunow entirely out of commission at critical junctures in the evolution of his 2009 crop, one result of which was a collection abbreviated at the upper end of Oechsle.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463
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