Clearly well-origined, to judge from the fine structure and essential purity. But it’s a very tannic, closed wine, with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentuates the acidity. Even so, it’s so ripe in blackberries and currants it’s almost drinkable now, with a good decant. But you’re best off cellaring a good 4–6 years. ——S.H.(10/1/2010)—— 90