The deep ruby/purple-colored 1998 Barolo Cannubi Boschis boasts a spectacular bouquet of mineral-infused black cherry liqueur, new saddle leather, and pain grille. This powerful, ripe 1998 offers full-bodied flavors, silky tannin, low acidity, gorgeous levels of glycerin, and a creamy mouthful of complex, layered, superbly pure Nebbiolo fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Expensive, but worth every penny to experience such a big, lush, juicy mouthful of Barolo. Hints of dark-roasted coffee and wisps of maple syrup wrap around flavors of strawberries and tar, but this wine is all about the seduction of texture—velvety and supple, it leaves you wanting more and more.——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 93