This wine takes some time in the glass to fully open up and express itself, but when it does, it’s a beauty. Hints of menthol and toast frame blackberry and blueberry fruit, while subtle notes of vanilla and coffee surround an earthy core. It’s full-bodied and viscous, with an almost Port-like texture and dry, dusty tannins on the finish. Hold 3–5 years. ——J.C.(3/1/2007)—— 90