The 2009 LOUREIRO, aged in stainless steel, from the sub-region of Lima, is crisp, mouthpuckering and laced with lemons and grapefruit, particularly on opening. It comes in at 11% alcohol. This very fine Loureiro has lovely aromatics and some delicacy, as befits the grape, but despite its subtlety as it warms, it also has good body for the grape, persistence on the finish, fine texture -- and that acidity, of course, which lends it grip and intensity and a lemon-y zing. It is simply refreshing. Although it is certainly approachable (when tasted in July, 2010) in that old “sit by the river, drink the invigorating, wake-me-up wine” style, a few months to settle down sure wouldn’t hurt this. It sure showed better with some air and warmth, although the acidity remained piercing. If you like its style, this is exceptional Loureiro. There were 50,000 bottles produced. The wines from this property have fooled me before, and I suspect this will hold longer and better than one might expect, but for safest results drink on the younger side. I think “peak” will be over the next year or so. Drink now-2013. Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463

The Loureiro is the grape of the Lima Valley subregion in Vinho Verde. The texture of the wine is rounded and creamy, although the crisp green fruits give a great bright lift to this delicious, fresh wine.——R.V.(12/15/2010)—— 90