A unique and rare varietal expression of this obscure southern Rhone grape, here blended with 20% Syrah. It’s tart and racy, somewhat Italian in style, a bit like a young Dolcetto. Cranberry fruit, baking spices, powdered sugar and bitter chocolate notes dot the flavor landscape. It’s the strong natural acidity that really sets the wine in motion and keeps the alcohol at bay.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 89