Sweeter and more single-mindedly scented with ripe cherry than its 2008 counterpart - though with hints of black tea, smoked meat and game - the Belles Eaux 2007 Languedoc Les Coteaux is satisfyingly plush in feel and saturates the palate with brown-spiced pit- and salt-laced cherry. A hint of caramel tinges the fruit in a finish that despite its pronounced salinity does not offer the interactive, mouthwatering complexity or the elegance of the corresponding 2008. I would plan to drink this over the next couple of years, though I am sure that the estate has more far-reaching hopes, and the truth is that a track record for bottle-aging has yet to accumulate for this relatively new project. While due to press of time I had to rely on samples of recent Mas Belles Eaux releases, I did make use of a half hour noon break in my travel schedule one day to walk their vineyards on the edge of Caux, which are as impeccably cared-for as I expected, knowing that this now nearly decade-old domaine was created by the A.X.A. insurance group (owners of Chateau Pichon Baron, etc.) now directed by Christian Seely. The estate is one of the few to have adopted the ultra-umbrella appellation "Languedoc" almost from its inception four years ago. Les Coteaux, the estate's principle wine, is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre reflecting diverse variations on chalk-clay and cobbled Villafranchian soils, and matured for 15 months in barriques of 1-3 years age. The Saint Helene bottling is not handled much differently, but comes from the highest, best-drained parcels on the estate, and is composed of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan.Imported by Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000
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