The 2010 Goliardo Caino sees 12 months in French oak. It has a lifted, candied bouquet of red cherries and raspberry, with woody, wet tobacco notes emerging within a couple of minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, sour cherry, bergamot and bitter lemon. It needs a little more harmony towards the finish, although it displays commendable length. Fine. Drink now-2015. Bodegas Forjas del Salnes is one of the most revered producers in Rias Baixas. Located close to the Atlantic, Rodrigo Mendez tends vines located on granitic sand with some phylloxera- resistant vines well over one century old. He is renowned for his red wines, although to be truthful only the Goliardo Loureiro fulfilled my expectations. But Rodrigo’s two whites were terrific and this is where I will commence.Importer: Peninsula Wines (Patrick Mata and Alberto Orte) New Rochelle, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724 and Carte Blanche Wines (UK).