From the high western edge of its appellation, just outside the old village of Morgon, the 2009 Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne (tasted from tank) mingles fresh black fruits; kirsch; toasted, salted nuts; high-toned herbal essences; and a haunting hint of rowan in an effusive aromatic display, backed by a mouth-filling and delightfully buoyant palate impression. Here is a 2009 that belies whatever alcohol it may have (and I didn’t check in this instance). Cherry pit, salt, and chewy berry skin combine to help render the finish lip-smacking. I would not be surprised if this terrific value held up well for 3-4 years, though I cannot speak from direct experience with older examples. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463