The 2004 was slightly less impressive from bottle than I thought last year, but exhibits sweet, dusty black cherry notes intermixed with some crushed rock. It is lighter-bodied than I remember, but much in keeping with the vintage. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The fruit here is of the red variety—perhaps strawberry or raspberry—but there’s also a slightly green, chlorophyllic note. This herbal streak gives an otherwise creamy textured wine a dry, astringent edge that sticks out a bit on the finish. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 86