Alzinger’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal smells of diverse herbs, Szechuan peppercorn, and lily-like flowers. Bitter-sweet, but rich in glycerin, this full-bodied Smaragd is, like most of Alzinger’s here today, quite tight in its range of flavors, its concentration pulling in a bitter direction and possessing an underlying vegetable and mineral-broth character. It is a wine impressive in its sheer intensity and length, yet more formidable than loveable. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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