The wine press seems to have lost interest in Gaja’s Cabernet Sauvignon, but the 1999 Darmagi is the finest since the duo made in 1988 and 1989. A deep, inky ruby with black berry fruit, light herbs, and sweet oak, it is currently slightly closed up and austere, but with a brooding authority which promises well for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000