Clean and stylish, this sleek Chardonnay includes a few new barrels and some new stave wood. It’s about 60% stainless-steel and 40% barrel fermented. This is a very nice compromise between barrel fermented, oaky flavors and the too-neutral character of all-stainless Chardonnay. There’s a lemony lift to the aromas, and delicate hints of toast dappled throughout, but it’s really the crisp apple and pear fruit that shines through.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 89