The Il Poggione 2009 Sant'Antimo Vin Santo Riserva (in a 500-milliliter bottle) is not cloying or too viscous. In fact, the wine is surprisingly lithe and elegant in the glass with its characteristic Vin Santo aromas of candied fruit, caramel, toasted almond and maple syrup. It feels light and approachable on the palate with mid-weight creaminess.