The 2008 Magari is more complex and layered than the 2009. Sweet menthol, licorice, black cherries and tobacco come together beautifully in this delineated, nuanced Magari. A melange of smoke, tar and licorice adds elements of darkness and intrigue on the finish. Magari is 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc that spends 18 months in French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. These new releases from Angelo Gaja’s Maremma property are quite successful. That said, it is interesting to note that Ca’Marcanda (the winery) is one of the few properties in Maremma to place such a high emphasis on Merlot, which is the main grape in all three of the estate’s reds. Because of that, these wines aren’t as differentiated as those of neighboring properties. By now, I think it is also quite clear that, with few exceptions, Merlot is an excellent component in Maremma wines, but rarely the most exciting leading player. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900