Displaying a saturated ruby/purple color as well as a ripe nose of black fruits, licorice, and spicy oak, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve cuts a big, full feel in the mouth. With good purity, and moderate tannin, it should be drunk over the next 10-12 years. Tel. (707) 963-2225; Fax (707) 963-1949

Rich, dense and cool, with an overt menthol streak. The fat, tangy fruit has a cedar edge and also a pronounced piercing quality. Round, voluminous, tannic and in general quite big. Now the wood is a bit heavy-handed. A year or two on its side should help it along.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 89