The 2007 Barbera d'Alba Santo Stefano offers up smoke, tar, blackberries and plums in a dark, racy style. The wine reveals excellent persistence and an approachable personality. Ideally the Santo Stefano is best enjoyed while the fruit remains vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Proprietor Italo Stupino continues to ratchet up quality at Castello di Neive. This year I tasted through the entire range and came away most impressed with the Barberas and Barbarescos. The other wines, while certainly correct, weren’t especially exciting. The only real disappointment was the 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, which falls short of the level of recent vintages. Importers: Bacchanal Wine Imports, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (646) 207-0115; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Vintage Selections, Cape Canaveral, FL; tel. (321) 783-2700; West Park Imports, Sharon Hill PA; tel. (610) 532-3039; Castello di Neive MHW Ltd, Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170