The world of Baco Noir producers is rather limited, at least here on the west coast, but Girardet has been a leader for decades. This 2005 edition brings red currant and very tart berry fruit with it, and it somehow seems wrapped in pastry dough. The structure on the palate is a bit like Sangiovese, acidic and light, but clean and showing some staying power once you get past the hole in the midpalate.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 86